Lenox 1986 Tribute To American Fashion "Belle of the Ball" Antebellum Porcelain Lady Figurine

This listing is for a Lenox fine porcelain sculpture titled "The Belle Of The Ball" from the 1986 American Fashion Figurine Collection.  The figurine is pre owned, but used for display only with a barely visible hairline crack at the right elbow.  There is no original box or Certificate of Authenticity.  The romance and charm of the old South is forever captured by this 8.5 inch tall figurine, "Belle of the Ball", with its historically accurate portrayal of an 1860's ballgown.  This was the middle of the Victorian era, a period sometimes called the "frill and flounce" era because of the lavish design and extravagant decoration of women's clothing.  Evening fashions, in particular, were elegant creations designed to enhance the femininity of the wearer.

Fashion emphasis was centered on the skirt during this period.  The bell shape of the figurine's gown is a lovely example of the voluminous skirts which often required over a thousand yards of material.  The floor length under skirt was topped with one or more shorter overskirts of contrasting color, creating a tiered effect.  This same effect is also achieved, especially for day wear, by attaching ruffles to the skirt.  Each layer was heavily trimmed with gathers, lace, accordion pleats, bows, and flowers.

The young lady depicted in Belle of the Ball was a trend-setter among the fashion conscious, for her skirt features a separate piece attached at the waist and cascading down the back.  This is a forerunner of the bustle, which would soon dominate the fashion scene.  To give the skirt its bell shape, a lady wore as many as seven petticoats of cotton and flannel.  The introduction of the steel wire crinoline eliminated the need for quite so many petticoats. 

Bodices of the antebellum period featured a long, tightly cinched waist, often pointed in front.  The bodice was stiffened with bone and fitted over a tight corset.  Necklines for evening wear were trimmed with lace and ruffles to match the skirt.  They were quite low, drooping off the shoulders, with a real or artificial flower tucked into the decolletage.  Sleeves were short and puffed.  Both bodice and skirt fastened up the back with hooks and eyes.  Soft, muted colors were preferred, while favorite fabrics for evening included organdy, silk, tarletan, taffeta, and tulle.  Costumes for daytime were made of velvet, poplin, silk, satin, cashmere, and merino, a soft woolen fabric.

For her evening of dancing, this lovely belle has dressed her hair in an elaborate coiffure, with curls framing her delicate face.  The smooth crown ends in a "waterfall" of curls tumbling to the nape of her neck.  As was popular during the period she represents, flowers accent her hairstyle. Shoes of the period were heelless or with only a very small heel.  Evening shoes were made of satin, silk, or kidskin and were decorated with a rosette or bow and an embroidered toe.  Silk stockings were white.

Cloaks, shawls, and shoulder capes were popular  for outerwear as they fit easily over the crinoline skirts.  Gloves were a necessity.  These were short, in pastel shades for the day and in white, wrist length for evening.  The heavy gold jewelry shown on this figurine is true to the period.  Necklaces were worn only with evening costumes, since daytime dresses had high necklines, making such jewelry impractical.  The glamour, romance, and lavish styles of the antebellum South live on in this exquisite Lenox Bell of the Ball fashion figurine.