Drum beaters
In standard-made drum pedal the shaft of the beater is made of aluminum with changeable head made of laminate (4) – Picture 1.1. Special key, added to the set, is for changing the heads – Picture 1.2. The structure of drum beaters enables regulation of the angle of drum beater head inclination in all planes because the body (1) is mounted on ball bearing (2) – locking it on the required position is executed by unscrewing the screw (3) on the rear part of the body (1) – Picture 1.1. Screw on the end contacting with ball bearing has a cavity with the same diameter as bearing thanks to this, high fastening force can be achieved at relatively low screw clamping force. Both elements – screw and bearing are hardened. It prevents from any wearing of these elements. Drum beater rods are made of extra fine steel and have a standard diameter. So it is possible to use drum beaters from other manufacturers. Drum beaters bearing
In most constructions on the market, drum beaters are usually mounted on the axes with bearings and supported on one side. This kind of solution triggers generation of bending forces during pressing the pedal by the foot. These forces are the cause of majority of bearings damages. Our solution eliminates the adverse distribution of forces. Every beater holder is equipped with two bearings in a way to apply a load on bearings in the form of only radial forces. It guarantees its long-term and failure-free operation.
Drum beater bearings in main beater
Our construction distinguishes itself with the symmetric spacing of drum beaters against the bass drum axis what has the significant meaning during the bass drum sound amplification. Thanks to that kind of spacing, the sound from both drum beaters is identical. The significant condition is well tuned equipment and good drummer. Position of the whole set against the bass drum as dependent on the configuration of clamping arm (1) and central base (2) Picture 1.2.1. in main pedal. It doesn’t matter if its DOUBLE, 2xSINGLE or SINGLE, we always configure it properly. In the situation when we play it alternately – on 2xSINGLE or DOUBLE, and we want our beaters in single pedal to hit exactly the centre of the central and we also want to have a constant symmetric spacing, we would have to configure these elements on our own – description is provided in p. 5.2 Fixing the twin drum pedal – Twin and in p. 5.3 Fixing the single drum pedal – Single
Beater’s angle of inclination adjustment
The beater holder (1) is fixed on the spring holder (2) equipped with bearings and is equipped with a scale cut out on the circuit thanks to which it can be adjusted with high precision. To do that, you have to loosen the tightening screw (3), set the beater holder at the requested angle and tighten the screw again – Picture 1.3.1. The adjustment is carried out really fast and the number of possible combinations is really big – everyone can find his own suitable settings.
Spring tension system
In most of the drum pedals on the market a spring adjustment causes difficulties, not mentioning about keeping the constant spring tension during a long playing session. Slackening counter-nuts, adjusting screws deflection during springs operation, creaking, etc. We eliminated all of these problems thanks to the unique construction of the tensioner – Picture 2.1. The whole tensioner construction is patented. Spring tensioner was designed in a way to make the springs adjustment an easy task and, above all, to enable verifying the spring tension in particular situation and what is the most important thing – to make a possibility of reverting to the earlier settings after the adjustment, what often takes place during equipment testing. To do that, the tensioner mechanism was quipped with a scale cut out on a stand and tensioner. Al you need to do is to note the positions suitable to us and revert it every time we want and with full guarantee of repeatability
Spring tension adjustment
To adjust the spring tension all you need to do is to push a tensioner block (1) with your hand – Picture 2.1.1 – the adjusting screw (2) will go down, and you can adjust it from now on. If the block is not forced, no adjustment is possible because the screw is locked with two resisting balls (3) placed under the adjusting screw holder (4). (picture 2.1.1 is pictorial, in reality – the adjusting screw doesn’t have to be lowered so much – situation in which the resisting balls are not placed inside the cavities in adjusting screw, will to the job). After the adjustment and when the pressure is released, screw will go up and lock in resisting balls – Picture 2.1.2. which, thanks to the spring tension, will fix the adjusting screw in the required position. There are no counter-screws or any other fixing elements. We guarantee that the spring tension will keep the same level up to the next adjustment.
Replacement of spring
To replace the spring, you have to follow the instructions below – Picture 2.2.1
•Completely loosen the spring (1) fixed in pedal with the adjusting screw (2)
•using the 1.5mm Allen wrench, unscrew the screw (3) on the spring suspension (4)
•dismount the “old” spring
•suspend the lower hook of the “new” spring on the lower spring slide suspension (5)
•place the upper hook inside the upper suspension notch (4)
•screw in the screw again (3)
tension the spring according to p. 2.1 Spring tension adjustment
7
Footboard
Footboard (1) is made of high-quality aluminum and is equipped with an ending (2) used to
join the pedal with the yoke (3). There are four ball bearings – two pieces for each bearing mounting
(4), which is screwed to the base (5) – Picture 3.1. This construction is very resistant to pressure and
bending of the pedal from one side to another, what prevents from clearances so often occurring in
majority of constructions on the market. Picture below shows a standard engraving – on Client’s
request we make non-standard designs. To order this, please contact us on our e-mail address.
Yoke – direct drive
Yoke (1) – Picture 3.1.1 is equipped with two movable elements joined with each other by
only one screw (2). Thanks to three holes it is possible to change its length up to 22mm. This kind of
adjustment enables to easily lower the pedal without any necessity of changing any other settings.
Both ends of the yoke are equipped with bearings.
Pedal’s height adjustment
Pedal’s height is changed by changing the active yoke length (1) Picture 3.1.1. To do this, you
have to unscrew the screw (2) which locks the yoke. Next, put it into the other hole and screw it in
again to achieve the suitable pedal’s height. If the height doesn’t suit you, it can be re-adjusted by
adjusting the yoke holder (3). To do this, you have to loosen the screw (4), shift the yoke on spring
holder (5) and tighten the screw (4). You have to remember that in the first method of adjustment,
we don’t affect the operational characteristic of a drum pedal, but in the second method, we also
change the arm length of the force arising from the feet pressure transmitted to pedal – in other
words, the bumper striking force is changed.
Change of pedal action
In our drum pedals, we used the 4-grade transmission adjustment of the beater movement
against the pedal movement. Thanks to screwing down the screw (1) – Position 3.3.1 into one of the
four holes in yoke holder (2). A position closest to the yoke axis of rotation gives the shorter pedal
shift and fastest beat, and the furthest position trigger the longer pedal shift and higher beating force.
A shaft connecting the main and auxiliary pedals is equipped with cardan joints win which the
torque transmission is carried out by a ring placed outside the knuckle – circumferentially – Picture
4.1. All the elements are made of aluminum and every knuckle is equipped with 2 rolling bearings.
This kind of solution enables to transmit forces larger than in hinges with drive-transmitting element
placed in the middle of the knuckle, and prevents from any clearances during hinge operation.
Both ends of the connecting shaft are ended with cardan joints, which are equipped with set
screws (1) – 2 screw per one joint – Picture 4.1.1, used for fixing it to the main and auxiliary pedal
Connecting shaft length is adjusted by unscrewing two set screws (2), adjusting the shaft to a
suitable length and tightening the screws. Length can be adjusted up to 190 mm against the minimum
length (before unscrewing) – Picture 4.1.2
Attention!!! Care should be taken to set the tightened elements in the correct
position against each other in a way that the ends of two set screws (2) are in contact
with surfaced made on the connecting rod (3).
Connecting shaft installation DOUBLE
To install a connecting shaft in double bass drum pedal, position both pedals – main on the
right and auxiliary on the left side, preferably in parallel. The distance between them should be close
to the required a connecting shaft length. To install the a connecting shaft, insert the pin-stocks (2)
and (3) – Picture 4.2.2 and 4.2.3 of both pedals into the knuckle holes and tighten the four set screws
(1)
Attention!!! Care should be taken to set the tightened elements in the correct
position against each other – Picture 4.2.2 and Picture 4.2.3 in a way that the ends of two
set screws (1) are in contact with surfaced ma de on pin-stocks (2) and (3)– it is vital for
correct connecting shaft operation and cooperation between main and auxiliary pedals.
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